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Could anyone suggest some good Bouldering specific routines (flexibility/strength/endurance training) that can be done without any equipment during a lunch break (30 mins). I Climb about a V5 and have been doing so for about 5 months. I normally train after climbing using fingerboards for pull ups, two handed and one handed dead hangs but would like to expand my training during lunch-breaks. I have available a large open space but nothing else.

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migrated from Jan 24 '13 at 14:30

This question came from our site for participants in team and individual sport activities.

You may find this question useful:… Although your's is arguably distinct because bouldering is more strength / power oriented than sport or traditional climbing. I'm just a sport / trad guy, and a terrible boulderer, so I couldn't give great advice. – DavidR Jan 24 '13 at 17:13
I don't know enough about bouldering to make anything other than general recommendations, but my advice would be to look at the specific things you need to improve, and find exercises/stretches that will help that and can be done in thirty minutes. For example, if you need to increase shoulder flexibility, I would recommend 10 minutes on a cybex arm machine for a warmup, followed by 20 minutes of shoulder specific stretching, 2-4 times per week. More details in your question can help us to give a better answer. (Although a cybex might be difficult in an open space with nothing else :p) – JohnP Jan 24 '13 at 17:53
could you do ab work in your lunch break? That's the one real climbing-relevant thing you could do without any equipment, that you may not be doing. P90X abs, V-ups, planks, L-sits, that sort of stuff? – DavidR Jan 26 '13 at 23:52
@DavidR Yea, was thinking Ab work would be part of the routine, also have a powerball which I think will make up part of it. – Manatherin Jan 27 '13 at 15:53
Rice bucket training for grip strength? Pushups to strengthen the antagonist (pushing) muscles? Slackline to improve your balance? All of those? Identify a weakness and work on it. – VPeric Apr 22 '13 at 13:04

For felixibility you can run a 15 repetitions of Sun salutations after your resistance. It will help blood flow and can workas a nice cleansing routine :) It takes only but a sheer 5 minutes if you have master it. You can use the first 5 mins to warm up, 15 minutes resistance, 5 minutes yoga sun salutations, and 5 mins cooldown :)

Also make sure you train your external rotators of your shoulders, and make sure they are well in shape. supinated/neutral chin-ups should also be in your focal point of your workouts.

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You've been given some great advice in the comments.

In addition to those, you can perform

  • Pull ups: Those strengthen your shoulders, arms, and back muscles, muscles you really need for climbing
  • Bar hanging: This is like a chin up, the main difference being that instead of coming down like a chin up, you stay in the upward position for as long as you can. This beastly exercise works every part of your core, as well as your arms. The more stable your arms and core are, the easier the climbing will be for you.
  • Leg up or leg hanging: This improves the strength of your thighs and legs.
  • Burpee (yes, including the jump): The squats and plank develop your core, the jumping increases your agility and flexibility.

Include these for a month and determine if there's an improvement in your strength, endurance, and performance.

Good luck.

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