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1
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0answers
25 views

Measuring progress in Bouldering

I have been climbing for 13 years now and have been competing for most of that. I have reached a plateau or at least a point where simply measuring progress with the grading system is not accurate ...
1
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0answers
32 views

RSI-prevention wise, should I be using my pink finger or my ring finger for pressing keys/buttons? [closed]

Recently I've started playing a game called Beatmania, where you repeatedly press 7 different buttons and also here and there spin a disc. It's possible to press the buttons with a lot of different ...
1
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3answers
99 views

How to train the muscles of fingers?

When I train fingers, I tend to do low rep and too high weights -- this is probably the wrong way to do it! Then next day I can feel some little pain or easily get blisters when skin so sore. I have a ...
3
votes
2answers
118 views

When\how to start to train on a campus board

I've been climbing for a little while now, strength is improving thanks to gym sessions to top up climbing sessions but the campus board seems to be to beginner climbers like the sun to Icarus. It's ...
1
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1answer
82 views

How to improve baby finger's extension and flexion? How to relax it? How to stretch it?

My baby finger has not become relaxed enough due to wrong technique in tennis, too much stress on it and more here. The only moment I can feel the toughness is when I am totally relaxed like after ...
4
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2answers
480 views

Fingers for intensive sports requiring hands a lot? Recoving from ulnar claw?

[Update] Thanks to the answer, I acknowledge now that I am heading towards "ulnar nerve entrapment" where one injury is Ulnar claw -- more common with males particularly training in gym with large ...
8
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2answers
661 views

How to train finger extension?

For climbers, it's important to train the antagonist muscles to our primary movers, to prevent injury. For the fingers, these are the extensors (as you're always flexing your fingers when gripping ...