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9

It sounds like you want to start incorporating muscle-ups and weighted pull-ups whenever possible. I don't think kipping pull-ups are really appropriate for a number of reasons, but if they float your boat (and you have a healthy, strong, flexible shoulder girdle), rock 'em. Upper-Body Pulling Power Power is not a common goal for upper body pulls, though ...


7

Rock climbing is largely a skill sport, so to get better, climb more. Being generally fit also helps, but to be a better rock climber, you need to climb a lot. If you want to specifically do extra work for rock climbing you should start off with identifying your weaknesses. From my experience in my climbing gym, the biggest weaknesses are grip strength and ...


7

Sweaty hands is a common ailment for weight lifters and rock climbers, with equally detrimental effects. The solution really isn't nutrition related. It's simply chalk. Chalk dries the hands, and improves your grip. If you feel that chalk would be detrimental to the environment, you can go for an "Eco Ball" by Metolius. Same effects, although I might ...


6

Lots of questions, and hopefully I can help you piece things together. When combining weight training with any kind of a sport, you do have to keep in mind recovery. To that end, you have a couple options: Tack it at the end of the week. This is a pretty sound idea. You still have a day of recovery between then and the next session. I used this ...


5

I'd recommend you to get a pull up bar, as I think the pull up comes closest to real climbing. The models for the door frame are not that expensive. But it might be complicated to find the right door to make you still able to watch TV and I doubt you want to glue a ceiling mounted pull up bar to your living room. So without a pull up bar, try inverted rows ...


5

In order to improve your strength needed for climbing, you should focus on pulling patterns: inverted rows (horizontal pulling) are good, lay down under a table und pull yourself up. If this is too easy, place your feet onto a chair. pull ups (vertical pulling). They are my favourite pulling exercise, they just give you so much strength, work your biceps ...


5

I had a period of serious shoe funk, and tried a number techniques before finding a system that works for me. It should be noted that shoe odor tends to be much worse in synthetic shoes. The most important thing is prevention. Do not put your shoes in a bag, ever. Even in an open canvas bag, the shoes don't dry out as well between sessions. I've taken to ...


4

I'm super surprised no one has mentioned the major source of muscle imbalance in climbers: climbing is a pulling sport more than a pushing sport. This results in overdevelopment of upper-body pulling muscles (biceps and back) relative to pushing muscles (chest and triceps). I personally have a friend who climbs 5.14 and yet has terrible back pain that ...


4

A good way to increase your leg lifting height is to use ankle weights. Legs carry a massive proportion of your body weight (on the average person). Train the muscles involved in lifting your legs. By using a light ankle weight (around 1.5kg) and lifting your knee to its highest possible position. Rinse and repeat performing 10-12 repetitions on each leg. ...


4

There's a lot of good stuff in the other answers here. Pullups and rows are great. Grip training at home (with Rock Rings or grippers) is awesome. I'd also emphasize 2 other things: core work, and general fitness. Abs A strong core is what's going to let you control your legs, and drive power between you lower and upper body, especially on overhangs. ...


4

Rent them until you can get your own. Evolve makes some fairly low priced shoes, at least much cheaper than the other mainstream brands. Unless you're naturally a good climber, 5.8'ish is going to be a ceiling for most people without proper shoes. It's hard to gain confidence and good technique without being able to practice good footwork.


4

The power web is a popular physiotherapy tool. You put your fingers through the holes and then just spread them out. Difficulty varies depending on the strength of the material (color-coded) and finger spacing. Regarding training extensors to balance flexion, this article suggests that it is wrist extension that is a more important focus rather than finger ...


3

There are a lot of things you can do to increase the shelf life of your rock climbing shoes as well as reduce the odor/bacteria in it: Do not wear them except while climbing; the rubber grips at the bottom soak up the dirt and gravel, reducing their effectiveness and long-term durability. Replace the soles of the shoes on an as-needed basis. Use a damp rag ...


3

Outdoor Gear Lab wrote a pretty good article on the subject here: http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Climbing-Shoe-Reviews/Buying-Advice Quoting from this article: If you are just starting out then you probably want a more comfortable, versatile, all-around shoe. Don't go for the aggressive down-turned shoes. Go for something that is not too tight and ...


3

Finger injuries from climbing often involve strains of the tendon and/or tendon pulley, inflamation, partial or full tears and/or joint ligament sprains. You would need to see a doctor for a diagnosis, preferably a hand specialist with experience treating climbers. If you need treatment, look for a specialized hand therapist (either a physical or ...


2

The only answer is comfortable shoes. It's quite possibly the only answer for a climber at any level, but certainly for beginners. You don't want shoes that will slip around, but most places will tell you to get them as tight as you can tolerate. That's way bogus. Get them comfortable. If as you progress they seem like they aren't tight enough, you'll ...


2

Muscle "pump" is nothing more than increased blood flow into a muscle from exertion. If you have a higher pump sensation than usual, then I'd look at something else as the cause. More caffeine or salt than usual, dehydration, other factors that would contribute to this.


2

I agree with @Dean that "the most important thing is prevention" but my method is slightly different. Over my first 6 months of climbing ~2/wk indoors, my climbing shoes became unbearably (and embarrassingly) smelly, despite religiously air drying them after use. As OP mentioned, they were also visibly dirty on the inside. And it's worth noting that I never ...


2

The reason running shoes are not great for rock climbing is because they tend to fit a little loose (since your foot swells when you run), they don't have hard soles, and to be durable enough for heavy road use, the rubber is not very sticky. Climbing shoes typically have sticky rubber, are form fitting, and have fairly rigid soles so you can stick to ...


2

In the wide group of people I climb with, the opposite is true. I'd have to agree with Liam - these days, climbing training is incredibly well balanced, with most folks combining a high degree of cardio workout with core strength, and isometrics, along with weights for extension and flexion. Hunches seem to have been an issue earlier than ten years ago, ...


2

Seeing your routine, which is very solid, I've realized I do have some advice. There are two rough approaches I would take in your shoes. The first approach would be to cut the sets of 8 to sets of 3. Fewer reps per set still maintains or improves strength, without requiring the endurance of 8-rep sets. It also decreases the recovery load on your system. ...


2

High stepping in rock climbing To high step, you need to lift your knee high, but also rotate your hip out and then possibly extend the high foot from that rotated position. This is going to require developing dynamic flexibility / mobility in your glutes, hip flexors, and hamstrings. This image illustrates a fairly advanced high-step: high step. What ...


2

A cheap and effective way is to put your hand in a bucket full of rice while making a fist. Once you have done that, open your hand. The deeper you put your hand in the bucket, the harder it will be. Alternatively, Metolius makes the Grip Saver which is a much more portable method and allows you to work both flexion and extension. This is what I use. ...


1

I've picked up this as it was mentioned on another SE site. I don't think this is true. I do not think that climbers suffer from muscle imbalances, in fact this type of imbalance would be very detrimental to climbing ability. Almost every climber I know has better posture than the average person. Most climbers work hard on posture, it's very important as ...


1

In some quick googling around, the biggest issues I could find included: Hunched shoulders -- suggesting upper back or general posterior chain weakness Difficulty of spreading fingers -- the opposite of a grip problem, manifests itself as inflammation pain in the fingers. The hunched shoulders I think are the more common issue that plagues a number of ...


1

It's hard to say without seeing your movements, but I'd say you probably want to strengthen your Iliopsas and Psoas muscles. Various types of leg rises will help do that. Check out the Hip Flexors section on this page. What we did in one of my kick-boxing classes was a lot simpler though and I found it to be effective. While standing, just lift one knee ...


1

You've been given some great advice in the comments. In addition to those, you can perform Pull ups: Those strengthen your shoulders, arms, and back muscles, muscles you really need for climbing Bar hanging: This is like a chin up, the main difference being that instead of coming down like a chin up, you stay in the upward position for as long as you ...


1

For felixibility you can run a 15 repetitions of Sun salutations after your resistance. It will help blood flow and can workas a nice cleansing routine :) It takes only but a sheer 5 minutes if you have master it. You can use the first 5 mins to warm up, 15 minutes resistance, 5 minutes yoga sun salutations, and 5 mins cooldown :) Also make sure you train ...


1

I think you're getting burned out because of the low carb diet. Your muscles need carbs to function and rebuild, and without much carbs your body will just break down muscle to supply you with energy. Strength training and high protein intake will counteract this to some degree, but cutting excess calories from fat would be the ideal method. Your likely ...


1

This link gives solid advice on the topic How to Lose Weight to Improve Your Climbing



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