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age 34
visits member for 2 years
seen Nov 25 '13 at 22:24

Just another software engineer. Longtime outdoor sports enthauist. Avid rock climber.


Mar
6
comment How can I analyze my running gait?
Instead of closing the question, can we change the title? I think its a general question about pronation, and about identifying potential orthopedic issues that could affect a running shoe decision.
Mar
2
comment Avoiding Tendinopathy (suggested rest interval to prevent chronic pain)
you may find this link interesing: nicros.com/training/articles/treating-climbers-elbow
Mar
2
comment Avoiding Tendinopathy (suggested rest interval to prevent chronic pain)
But all of this is stuff to consider after your elbow has gotten better (it sounds like you may have a minor injury)
Mar
2
comment Avoiding Tendinopathy (suggested rest interval to prevent chronic pain)
Sure. I wrote some very basic advice, because I wasn't sure where you were coming from. If you are bouldering a bunch and still not feeling strong enough, you may want to consider working in strength training for pull-ups and your abs, if those are weak areas? But doing that as a separate activity, as a part of a larger plan.
Mar
1
revised Avoiding Tendinopathy (suggested rest interval to prevent chronic pain)
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Mar
1
answered Avoiding Tendinopathy (suggested rest interval to prevent chronic pain)
Mar
1
revised Can I be serious about getting into great shape if I have an office job?
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Mar
1
revised Can I be serious about getting into great shape if I have an office job?
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Mar
1
answered Can I be serious about getting into great shape if I have an office job?
Mar
1
comment Avoiding Tendinopathy (suggested rest interval to prevent chronic pain)
I ask because although you asked for general information on avoiding tendonitis, it sounds like you have some pretty specific activities you're trying to do, and advice for getting back into running would probably be different than advice on getting back into climbing.
Mar
1
comment Avoiding Tendinopathy (suggested rest interval to prevent chronic pain)
You mention both rock climbing and shin splints (a running injury). Which sport are you worried most about getting injured in? You say you train multiple times a day in a climbing gym, are you doing multiple climbing sessions, or climbing some, then running later, or multiple sessions of climbing a day?
Feb
7
awarded  Popular Question
Feb
1
comment How long warm-up before gripper training?
Could you use an even lighter gripper, one that you can close? And then build up to the 150lbs one? I feel like fingers work better with relatively high volume sets, because that's safer on the connective tissue, so if you can't do 1 rep on a gripper, maybe that's a warning sign?
Feb
1
comment How long warm-up before gripper training?
yeah... its not like when you intentionally pop your fingers. What I would feel is more like the tendons would be stiff and not moving freely, and they'll "pop" a bit if I grab a strenuous climbing hold.
Feb
1
revised How long warm-up before gripper training?
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Feb
1
revised How long warm-up before gripper training?
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Feb
1
answered How long warm-up before gripper training?
Jan
28
comment Wrist Wraps on both wrists?
I do, however, do some rock climbing (but no gymnastic exercises). My experience there is that trying to patch over joint pain with a brace just never works out the way I'd want it to. Its always better to just be patient and address the underlying issue. YMMV
Jan
28
comment Wrist Wraps on both wrists?
I hesitate to officially answer, because I can't do either HSPUs or weighted chins (with any significant weight). But if it were me, I'd focus on fixing my wrists. And either doing these feats of strength less frequently, and / or supplement them with exercises that don't hurt your wrists (barbell press, dumb bell rows, so forth) until you've sorted out your wrist issues. My $0.02.
Jan
28
comment Wrist Wraps on both wrists?
Are you feeling pain in your weaker wrist when you workout without the wrist wrap?