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seen Nov 25 '13 at 22:24

Just another software engineer. Longtime outdoor sports enthauist. Avid rock climber.


Jan
28
comment Wrist Wraps on both wrists?
what kind of workout are you trying to do? What are you wrapping your wrist for? I.E. pullups, deadlifts, benchpressing, basketball ?
Jan
26
comment Bouldering Routines for Lunch Breaks
could you do ab work in your lunch break? That's the one real climbing-relevant thing you could do without any equipment, that you may not be doing. P90X abs, V-ups, planks, L-sits, that sort of stuff?
Jan
24
awarded  Organizer
Jan
24
comment Bouldering Routines for Lunch Breaks
You may find this question useful: fitness.stackexchange.com/questions/11416/… Although your's is arguably distinct because bouldering is more strength / power oriented than sport or traditional climbing. I'm just a sport / trad guy, and a terrible boulderer, so I couldn't give great advice.
Jan
24
revised Bouldering Routines for Lunch Breaks
edited tags
Jan
22
comment Exercises with one hand
There's an argument to be made for just chilling out, letting your injured arm heal, and accepting that you're going to be injured and maybe weak for a little while. I've personally made things worse by trying to "work around" an injury too aggressively. I don't have any great or consistent guidance... When I lift hard, I tend to subconsciously tense up a lot of the muscles in my body. Once, doing a hard set on a leg press machine I felt like I was irritating an injured elbow.
Jan
21
comment Exercises with one hand
pushups leaning against a wall? They're usually a rehab exercise, but with one arm, it may be a challenge. to do with one hand
Jan
21
comment What is the simplest way to measure strength?
You could also look at sprinting at a test of leg strength. (sorry to keep adding comments)
Jan
21
comment What is the simplest way to measure strength?
You could look at military physical fitness tests. The branches of the military all do fitness tests that involve some combination of pushups, pullups, situps, and running (usually 2-3 miles, I think), and publish a lot of information about what is / isn't considered good for a given person's age. If you wanted to compare yourself to the baseline fitness requirements for a soldier the same age as you.
Jan
21
comment What is the simplest way to measure strength?
Your question is slightly flawed - one major characteristic of being strong is being able to apply force to an external load (pushing stuff, pulling stuff, carrying stuff). That would imply some kind of equipment. :)
Jan
20
revised Home exercises for training for indoor rock climbing
emphasised my support for other answers, improved formatting.
Jan
20
revised Home exercises for training for indoor rock climbing
added 1129 characters in body
Jan
20
comment Home exercises for training for indoor rock climbing
just a note - bicep curls won't help with climbing. Pullups and rows (where you're engaging your lats and the larger muscles in your upper back) will be more applicable. When you're in the hand positions in climbing (like in a pullup) you're biceps can't engage all that much.
Jan
20
answered Home exercises for training for indoor rock climbing
Jan
13
comment How to train with grippers to avoid finger joints injuries?
I'm a climber with decent finger strength, and I've had a similar problem with grippers. I find that subtle changes in my hand position can make my fingers get loaded at bad angles, and lead to minor pain. I've had better luck doing finger curls with a barbell. That seems to lead to a more consistent movement pattern, incremental weight progression, and longer range of motion (holding the barbell with my finger tips, then pulling it into a closed fist). That's what I did, instead of fixing the issues I had with grippers. My $0.02
Jan
9
comment How do I get higher in a pullup?
can you describe what muscles you're using when you're holding your chest to the bar statically? I think I'm missing something there. I had been trying to use my biceps, and was focusing on pulling my biceps into my forearms to get the extra distance, and injured my elbows doing so. Was I doing it the wrong way? In that range, is the pullup still being driven by the lats / teres / rhomboids? Thanks.
Jan
9
comment How do I get higher in a pullup?
Just pulling hard, I hold my legs in place so I don't kip accidentally.
Jan
8
asked How do I get higher in a pullup?
Jan
4
comment Why are kettlebells so expensive?
I've wondered the same thing myself (they're almost 2x the price of dumbbells!), but there might not be a good source-able answer to this.
Jan
4
comment Is there any info available on how to measure daily eating calories perfectly?
there are smartphone apps / websites like "myfitnesspal" or "Livestrong MyPlate" that have imperfect calorie estimates based on foods that you enter. I've used those in the past with success to track my meals.