tl;dr - Starting to feel slight tendon pain. How long should I rest before it's OK to hit the gym hard again.
I recently decided to end my winter hibernation and got back into rock climbing.
Regardless of my slightly sloppy physique I have been hitting the bouldering gym as hard as my body will allow. Meaning, I may do more than one session a day with a few hours in between but am careful to take rest days so I can take advantage of super-compensation. I'm being careful to warm-up properly by hitting an exercise bike and stretching before each climb session.
Aside from a lot of expected soreness and energy dip until my body catches up to the pace I woke up today with some slight tendon pain in my right elbow (ie dominant arm) that subsided by lunch time.
Concern: I'm making good progress so far but also take the correct steps to avoid injury. I can switch over to working cardio in the interim but the super-compensation has been working surprising well so far and I'm really motivated to get back in the gym as soon as possible.
What's a good preventative rest interval after a minor tendon strain?
Note: There was no inflammation, just slight localized pain. Probably similar to golfer's/tennis elbow.
Thanks to the advice from DavidR. I started taking rest days a lot more seriously and implemented a strict 'one rest day following a climb day' rule. I also occasionally mix in some light extensor/flexor stretches during my climbing sessions. Now that my forearms are conditioned for the intensity, I rarely feel any tendon soreness unless I climb routes that include dynamic moves or a lot of really crimpy holds.
Once my forearms got better and I could handle longer sessions I actually started to have shoulder pain instead. I dislocated my left shoulder when I was a teen so I have to be careful about straining it. With some basic rotator cuff exercises and ample rest days when it started to hurt the shoulder pain also subsided. I've been climbing 100% for a couple months now.