2

I'm doing max weighted dead hangs. To improve grip/finger strength for climbing. I'm doing a lot of research on how to create training programs to increase max strength but everything I've seen so far is related to movements where reps are a range of motion. With this particular exercise, it's not as obvious (or is it?). How can I relate reps into my training program?

Note: I don't feel that hanging for 10s jumping off and jumping right back on and doing another 10s would be analogous to doing reps.

I'm also trying to build max strength so I want to keep my reps low and intensity high and I'm just confused as to how I can relate typical ROM exercises to isometrics.

Any ideas are welcomed. Any resources/studies are appreciated!

  • Just to clear something up: Why do you feel the need to measure "reps" at all? Isn't time a better counter for isometric exercises? – Alec Dec 16 '18 at 22:47
  • @Alec I'm using time and maybe that's my rep equivalent. But looking at training programs and more specifically Prilepin's chart. How do I get equate 18 total reps into a workout? Am I going to do 18 sets of one 10-second hang? That doesn't seem to make sense so perhaps fewer sets with a longer hang time of 45 seconds but then I'm no longer training max strength. – Vindictive Dec 16 '18 at 23:49
3

The fallacy of "counting repetitions" in isometrics

I would caution against using Prilepin's chart when it comes to measuring isometrics. The reason for this is something you already put very nicely. A "repetition" implies range of motion, and an isometric exercise has no range of motion. In fact, it has no motion at all.

Another approach

I would instead suggest that you simply figure out what weight you can hold for X seconds, and try to improve on them all.

For instance, let's say you can deadhang with

  • 10kg for 70 seconds

  • 20kg for 55 seconds

  • 30kg for 30 seconds

  • 40kg for 15 seconds

  • 50kg for 5 seconds

Then on any given day you wish to measure progress, pick one, and note down positive change, if any.

On days you are not aiming to set a PB, train as usual. Of course, grip training should include more than just dead hangs, but that's a story for another question (which I encourage you to ask if you're into it, but be sure to search similar questions on the site first).

Bottom line

Prilepin's chart is a tool. It has its uses, but counting isometric "repetitions" isn't one of them. Find a different tool. You can use the one I suggested, or find another one somewhere. I'm sure there are wiser people than me that have thought about this already.

| improve this answer | |

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.