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Questions tagged [fingers]

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8
votes
2answers
1k views

How to train finger extension?

For climbers, it's important to train the antagonist muscles to our primary movers, to prevent injury. For the fingers, these are the extensors (as you're always flexing your fingers when gripping ...
5
votes
2answers
825 views

Fingers for intensive sports requiring hands a lot? Recoving from ulnar claw?

[Update] Thanks to the answer, I acknowledge now that I am heading towards "ulnar nerve entrapment" where one injury is Ulnar claw -- more common with males particularly training in gym with large ...
4
votes
1answer
86 views

Fingers, hands and wrists specific stretching exercices

I am looking for some specific exercices for fingers, hands and wrists to improve the flexibility and not the strength. This is because I suffered of a bad tendinitis mostly to the flexor tendon of ...
3
votes
1answer
145 views

Measuring progress in Bouldering

I have been climbing for 13 years now and have been competing for most of that. I have reached a plateau or at least a point where simply measuring progress with the grading system is not accurate ...
3
votes
1answer
203 views

Assisting Muscles fatigue to quickly

Often times when exercising, my assisting muscles (muscles I'm holding the bar with for example) fatigue way quicker than the actual muscle I'm trying to train. Most noticible its on the Lat Pulldown. ...
3
votes
2answers
208 views

When\how to start to train on a campus board

I've been climbing for a little while now, strength is improving thanks to gym sessions to top up climbing sessions but the campus board seems to be to beginner climbers like the sun to Icarus. It's ...
3
votes
0answers
42 views

Isometric finger training - individually vs collectively

Bit of background - my training goals are ultimately geared towards climbing and max strength. Endurance and Hypertrophy are things I'm not interested in. Right now like most climbers, I train using ...
2
votes
1answer
110 views

Excercise to strengthen for writing speed

I have a exam which involves lots of writing 50 pages 3 hr , nine times in 6 days. I can increase my speed by simply writing practice, but is there any Gym exercise so that my writing muscles will be ...
1
vote
3answers
129 views

How to train the muscles of fingers?

When I train fingers, I tend to do low rep and too high weights -- this is probably the wrong way to do it! Then next day I can feel some little pain or easily get blisters when skin so sore. I have a ...
1
vote
1answer
812 views

Knuckle push-ups vs Finger push-ups

I was wondering which one is better, knuckle push ups or finger push ups. I know that knuckle push ups strengthen your wrists, and finger pushups strengthen your fingers. But is it better to do them ...
1
vote
0answers
53 views

RSI-prevention wise, should I be using my pink finger or my ring finger for pressing keys/buttons? [closed]

Recently I've started playing a game called Beatmania, where you repeatedly press 7 different buttons and also here and there spin a disc. It's possible to press the buttons with a lot of different ...
1
vote
1answer
119 views

How to improve baby finger's extension and flexion? How to relax it? How to stretch it?

My baby finger has not become relaxed enough due to wrong technique in tennis, too much stress on it and more here. The only moment I can feel the toughness is when I am totally relaxed like after ...