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5

First of all, if your fingers are constantly under stress and they are not recovering properly, this can lead to nerve damage in the wrist and elbow which is known as a repetitive stress injury. Much of your 'finger' strength in rock-climbing and tennis is generated by your forearm. So increasing forearm strength will increase the strength of your fingers. ...


4

What you're trying to do is, unfortunately, not that easily accomplished. Boundering grades are always a little subjective (depending on the climbers strengths / weaknesses, body mechanics, proportions, etc), so you may find that you struggle on a V8 whereas you fly up a V9. I remember reading an interesting article a while back that the best boulderers in ...


3

Grip strength is very important for a large number of reasons, so first of all, kudos for identifying the problem. Common mistake One of the reasons, as you point out, is that poor grip strength will limit the number of reps you can do, which short-changes your primary mover for that exercise. The most common mistake is to start using straps in order to ...


3

It depends on the campus board setup. Nice setups often have: The campus boards on an over hang with wooden slats underneath for your feet. And various sets of grips. The easiest is very positive and the hardest probably has nothing to wrap your fingers around at all. The slats help you scale down the exercises so you don't have to do them legless. So you ...


2

[May 2016] Michael asked whether the ulnar claw healed in comment. A short answer is Yes. Better analysis is that ulnar claw will probably never fully heal, the thing is precaution. You can feel the symptoms of ulnar claws in situations having excessive loss of minerals (nerve damage impairs the transportation of minerals in the arms) such as excessive ...


2

A cheap and effective way is to put your hand in a bucket full of rice while making a fist. Once you have done that, open your hand. The deeper you put your hand in the bucket, the harder it will be. Alternatively, Metolius makes the Grip Saver which is a much more portable method and allows you to work both flexion and extension. This is what I use. ...


2

To be precise - you want better stamina? I would use powerball, or some other exercises that requires squeezing. Instead of short term - high intensity, use lower intensity, and train longer. Please observe your body, elbows a specially. You can develop golf elbow, and that is quite tricky to get rid of. You need to stop, and rest... and you have exam. ...


2

I did different martial arts and as part of the warm up routine we would always do hand/wrist stretching. As it would be a bit difficult to explain them via words, I looked for some videos and found this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6nS7F8ospQ and several recommended ones on the side of youtube They explain the stretches in a nice and understanding ...


1

you can train muscles of finger by these five tips 1) Bouldering 2) Fingerboard Repeaters 3) Hypergravity Bouldering 4) Feet-on Lunging Exercises 5) Campus Training


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